Tomatoes and peppers are often bedding plants we do not have the time to start in short growing seasons. It is best to purchase these plants locally, picking healthy looking plants with no yellow leaves. Look for new growth which indicates the plant is getting its food requirements. There are a wide variety of tomatoes offered for you to pick the type that best suits your needs and space.

Both peppers and tomatoes make ideal container plants and can be enjoyed no matter how small your gardening space is. You may wish to read our article on side gardens to enlighten you on making use of difficult growing areas.

Hanging baskets and trellises can be used for trailing/vine type tomatoes and look great on the deck. Cold frames and greenhouses are ideal for these heat loving plants.

If you keep a compost pile try to keep your dead tomato plants in a seperate bin and use that compost for your tomatoes next year. This helps ensure your new crop will have the nutrients it needs. Follow some of the basic transplanting rules found below for all your bedding plants and enjoy your fresh produce!

Transplanting Tips

You can transplant almost any plant providing it is undertaken with care and at the correct time.

Most plants root systems extend outwardly in the ground to at least as far as its overhead foliage.

There are three types of roots you will encounter. Those that anchor the plant in the ground, its fine feeder roots and sometimes tap roots that extend far down into the soil.

Naturally the larger and older plants are going to be more difficult to transplant and require the most planning, sometimes for up to a year before the move is attempted.

This may entail cutting a circle around the plant at the outer foliage drip line to sever the feeder roots and to encourage a closer knit rootball. This will assist you when the time comes to finally make the move. Some plants, especially evergreens, will also require their foliage to be cut back at the same time to assist in the reduction of transpiration and subsequent loss of moisture.

DO plan to transplant during winter or during the plants dormant period.

DON'T attempt to transplant during the heat of the summer.

DO prepare the new site for the plant before removing it from its original position. The whole operation should be carried out as swiftly as possible.

DON'T dig the hole in the new position after beginning the transplantation process as the delay in placing the plant in its new home may allow its root system to dry out.

DO dig around the root system at the outer foliage drip line and loosen the root ball by using a fork with an upwards levering movement.

DON'T dig close to the plant as you will reduce the root system too much. The more soil you leave on the root ball the less disturbance there will be to the roots.

DO examine the root system when the plant is removed from its original position and trim off any broken roots.

DON'T leave the plant for any period of time above the ground without wrapping the rootball in hessian and damping it down.

DO add some compost or potting mix to the base of the new hole. This will encourange the plant to grow outwardly and help form a strong and vigorous new root system.

DON'T fertilise the plant at this time.

DO place the plant in its new position making sure that the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil.

DON'T position the plant with its roots intertwined, but tease them in an outward direction.

DO place the excavated soil back around the plant and heel-it-in to firm the soil around the root ball.

WATER WELL to make sure the root system is in touch with the surrounding soil and water thereafter on a regular basis to ensure the roots do not dry out. This is particularly important with evergreens, as these plants will tend to transpire more readily than deciduous plants.

NOTE: Article compliments of GrowIt Gold (tm)Copyright (c) 1990-2002, Brian Rondel, Innovative Thinking Software, All Rights Reserved.

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